This is the #1 confusion point. These are two totally different mediums.

A. Designer Gouache (Traditional)

• Binder: Gum arabic.

• Behavior: It is re-wettable. Even after it dries, if you touch it with a wet brush, it will reactivate.

• Pros: Infinite blending. You can leave dried paint on your palette and use it weeks later.

• Cons: Hard to layer (the top layer can accidentally lift the bottom layer).

• Verdict: Start here if you want the traditional gouache experience. (Brands: Winsor & Newton Designer, Holbein).

B. Acrylic Gouache (Acryla)

• Binder: Acrylic polymer.

• Behavior: It is permanent once dry.

• Pros: Waterproof. You can layer fearlessly.

• Cons: Dries instantly. Ruins brushes if left to dry. Cannot be reactivated.

• Verdict: Choose this if you want the look of gouache (matte) but the durability of acrylic.

C. "Jelly" Gouache (The Social Media Trend)

• What is it? Student-grade gouache kept wet in cups (Himi/Miya).

• Verdict: Fun for sketching and very cheap, but often streaky and prone to molding if not cared for. Good for absolute beginners on a budget.

You need a lot of white to make pastels and opaque mixes.

The Essentials:

1. Permanent White (Titanium): Large tube. This is your opaque, covering white.

2. Lemon Yellow: The "cool" yellow.

3. Yellow Ochre: Gouache is famous for earth tones; this is essential for landscapes.

4. Flame Red (or Cadmium Hue): The "warm" red.

5. Alizarin Crimson: The "cool" red.

6. Ultramarine Blue: The "warm" blue.

7. Primary Blue (or Cyan): The "cool" blue.

8. Burnt Umber: For mixing darks.

• Note on Zinc White: You might see "Zinc" or "Mixing" white. This is semi-transparent. Only get this if you want subtle mixing; otherwise, stick to Titanium/Permanent White for coverage.

Detailed guide available in the "Brushes" section.

• Material: Soft synthetic.

  • Avoid: Rough hog hair (leaves scratch marks in the smooth paint) and expensive sable (the chalky filler in gouache ruins delicate natural hairs).

• Shapes:

  • Flat/Bright: Gouache looks best with architectural, blocky strokes. A 1/2" flat is your main tool.

  • Round: For details.

Gouache is brittle. If you paint it on canvas, it will crack when the fabric moves.

Watercolor Paper (Hot Press)

• Texture: "Hot Press" means smooth.

• Why: Gouache artists usually prefer smooth paper so the texture doesn't fight the detail.

• Weight: 300gsm / 140lb is required.

• Acceptable for sketchbooks, but heavy washes might buckle the paper.

Water control is everything in gouache.

1. Tea: Very watery. Use this consistency only for staining the white paper initially.

2. Milk: Flows easily but has color. Good for large washes.

3. Cream (The sweet spot): The consistency of heavy cream or melted ice cream. It is opaque but flows off the brush. Aim for this 90% of the time.

4. Butter: Straight from the tube. Use only for final highlights (impasto). Warning: If painted too thick, it will crack/crumble off the page.

• Dark colors dry lighter. (The water evaporates, leaving the chalky binder visible).

• Light colors dry darker.

• Tip: If you are trying to match a color you already painted, mix it on a scrap piece of paper and let it dry first to check the match.

Walk into the store and grab these items.

The paint:

1. Permanent White (Large tube - 37ml)

2. Primary Yellow

3. Primary Red

4. Primary Blue

5. Ivory Black

6. Burnt Sienna

The Tools:

1. Brushes: Size 8 synthetic flat, Size 4 synthetic round.

2. Surface: Hot Press Watercolor block (smooth).

3. Palette: Ceramic or porcelain plate (Plastic stains badly with gouache).

4. Spray Bottle: Essential to keep your paints from drying out on the palette while you work.