• The physics: Pastel is almost pure pigment dust. It has virtually no binder to help it stick. If you put it on smooth paper, much of it will fall off.

• The secret: You need "tooth." Pastel paper must have a texture that acts to grab the pigment and hold it in place.

These are traditional colored papers. They rely on the texture of the paper fiber itself to hold the pigment.

1. Canson Mi-Teintes

This is the paper you will see in every art store. It is affordable and comes in a variety of colors.

• The "dual sided" trick: This paper has two sides.

  • Side A (The Honeycomb): Has a heavy, mechanical dimpled texture. Many pros hate this side because the "dots" fight your drawing.

  • Side B (The Smooth Side): This is the side you should use. It has a subtle, organic tooth that is beautiful for portraits and soft blending.

• Limitations: It is low-tooth. You can only do 2–3 layers before the paper gets "full" and slick.

2. Ingres Papers (Fabriano/Hahnemühle)

"Ingres" means "Laid" paper, which has visible grid lines embossed into it.

• Verdict: Good for loose sketching, but the grid pattern will show through your drawing.

Once you try sanded paper, you might not ever go back. 

• The benefit: The grit allows you to layer endlessly. You can put light colors on top of dark colors without making mud. It grabs the dust so well that you may not need fixative.

1. UART

UART is actual sanded paper, graded by grit just like at the hardware store.

• The grits:

  • 400 Grit: Coarse. Grabs tons of pigment. Eats your pastels fast.

  • 600-800 Grit: The sweet spot. Smooth enough for detail, toothy enough for layers.

• A warning: It will shred your fingertips if you blend with your fingers. Use a glove or a blending tool.

2. Clairefontaine Pastelmat 

This is widely considered one of the best pastel surfaces.

• The technology: It is not sandpaper. It uses a coating of fine cellulose fibers (like microscopic velvet).

• The feel: It's soft to the touch (it won't hurt your fingers) but grabs pigment like glue. It creates very little dust because the fibers trap the particles instantly.

• The cost: It's expensive, but it allows for "hyper-realism" because it can hold many layers of pigment without getting muddy.

3. Art Spectrum Colourfix

This is paper coated with an acrylic primer mixed with grit.

• The difference: The tooth is aggressive. It feels "crunchy." It is excellent for bold, expressive work, but tough on soft details.

Ampersand Pastelbord

This is a Masonite hardboard coated with a clay/marble-dust finish.

• Why use it: It's rigid. You can frame it without a mat (if you use spacers).

• The texture: It feels like "shark skin"—smooth but grippy. It is incredibly durable and waterproof (you can wash it off in the sink if you mess up).

If you need to save money, don't buy expensive pastel paper.

1. Buy cheap watercolor paper or mat board.

2. Buy a jar of "Pastel Ground" (Art Spectrum, Golden or Liquitex brands) or Clear Gesso.

3. Paint a thin layer over your cheap paper.

4. Result: You have instantly turned a $1 sheet of paper into a high-tooth, professional pastel surface. You can even tint the gesso with acrylic paint to make your own custom background colors.

The starter kit:

Buy a pad of Canson Mi-Teintes. Use the smooth side only. It's cheap and teaches you the basics of blending without breaking the bank.

The upgrade:

Try a sheet of Pastelmat (Dark Grey or Maize) and cut it into smaller pieces. The difference in control will shock you. It effectively turns student grade pastels almost into professional ones because it holds pigment so well.

Avoid:

Construction paper or generic sketch pads. They are too smooth, too acidic, and your art will eventually fade and fall off the paper.