ENCAUSTIC COLORS
The Reality of Encaustics
The most common mistake beginners make with encaustics is treating it like a childhood craft project by melting down cheap crayons or paraffin candles. It simply won't work. Paraffin wax is brittle, oily, and chemically unstable—meaning your hard work will bloom (turn white), crack, and fall apart almost immediately.
True encaustic is a magnificent, deeply tactile, and archival medium dating back to the ancient Greeks and Egyptians (notably seen in the Fayum mummy portraits). It relies on a precise structural marriage of pure beeswax and Damar resin. The resin is the secret ingredient: it raises the melting point of the wax, cures it to an enamel-like hardness over time, and allows the final piece to be polished to a striking, glass-like luster.
Harnessing this luminous medium means adjusting to a completely unique set of rules: trading flexible canvases for rigid wood panels, swapping synthetic brushes for natural bristles that won't melt, and respecting strict studio safety limits. Below, we break down the essential tools and physics you need to safely take on this historic, sensory art form.
Unlike traditional wet painting, encaustics is a structural, heat-based process. Applying liquid wax causes it to cool and harden almost instantly, requiring a specific setup:
The Surface (Never Use Flexible Canvas): Wax is rigid, whereas canvas is flexible. If a stretched canvas bends or flexes, the wax will form a spiderweb of cracks and peel off. You must use rigid wood panels (such as birch plywood or Encausticbord). If you love the texture of canvas, you can glue canvas flat onto a wooden board, but the substrate must remain completely solid.
The Paint (Pre-Made vs. Homemade): The industry gold standard is R&F Handmade Paints, which come in pre-pigmented "cakes." They are expensive, but offer incredible pigment loads. The Budget Hack: Buy a bag of clear Encaustic Medium (beeswax + Damar resin pellets) and melt it yourself. You can then tint the clear wax by adding your own oil paint (squeeze the excess oil out onto cardboard first). This is roughly 50% cheaper than buying pre-colored cakes.
The Palette: You do not need a specialized $300 studio heater. A standard electric pancake griddle with an adjustable temperature dial from a thrift store works perfectly as your heated palette.
The Brushes: Use natural hog bristle brushes only. Hot wax will instantly melt plastic synthetic bristles into a curled, unusable mess.
The "Fuse" (Merging the Layers): In oil or acrylic painting, you simply apply paint and let it dry. In encaustic, if you brush wax on and walk away, it is merely sitting on top of the substrate and will eventually peel off. The Rule: After applying every single layer of wax, you must pass a heat gun or torch gently over the surface until you see the wax "sweat" (turn glossy). This remelts the new layer so it physically fuses with the layer beneath it.
Scraping & Inlay: Encaustic is as much a sculptural medium as a painting one. If you make a mistake, you don't paint over it—you take a razor blade, palette knife, or pottery loop tool and carve it away. You can also carve deep lines into the surface and rub oil paint or oil sticks into the grooves, a striking technique known as Encaustic Inlay.
Beeswax smells pleasantly like honey when it melts, but temperature control is vital for studio safety:
The Toxic Limit: If you overheat beeswax above 200°F (93°C), it decomposes and releases Acrolein—a toxic chemical fume that heavily irritates the lungs.
The Visual Cue: If your wax palette is smoking, it is too hot and releasing fumes. Turn the heat down immediately.
Ventilation: Always work in a well-ventilated space with an open window or a cross-ventilation fan blowing fumes away from your face.
Choose Encaustics if: You are a mixed-media artist or sculptor who loves heavy texture, scraping, transparent layering, and the sensory experience of working with natural materials. It is the most tactile, dimensional painting medium in existence.
Skip it if: You dislike lengthy setup times (the wax takes 15–20 minutes to melt before you can start), or if you need a non-toxic, heat-free environment suitable for young children or pets.
Explore our comprehensive product comparisons below to find the right paints, mediums, and tools for your studio setup, and consider leaving a review of your favorite brands to help fellow artists!

Encaustic Art
If R&F and Enkaustikos are the "fine art" brands, Encaustic Art is the "craft & hobby" brand. Based in Europe, they pioneered a completely different style of encaustic painting that is cleaner, safer, and more accessible for home crafters.The Key Distinction:Instead of melting pots of wax and using brushes, this system uses heated tools (tiny irons and styluses) to melt the wax directly onto the paper. It is often called the "Hot Tool" method.The Tools (The Core of the System)The Painting IronThis is the flagship tool of the brand. It looks like a miniature travel clothes iron.How it works: You flip the iron upside down and use the flat metal plate as a mini-palette, or you load wax onto the iron and swipe it across the paper.The Result: It creates distinct, fractal-like patterns and "fantasy landscapes" instantly. It is famous for creating effortless mountains and skies with a single swipe.The Stylus (The Pro Tool)A heated wand with interchangeable metal tips (brushes, spades, drawing nibs).Use: This allows for detail work that the Iron cannot do. You can draw fine lines or spot-fuse specific areas.The Wax BlocksForm FactorThey sell small, rectangular blocks (much smaller than R&F cakes) that look like high-end crayons.ChemistryThe formula is different from the traditional Beeswax + Damar mix used by R&F.Ingredients: It is primarily Beeswax, but often blended with harder synthetic waxes or Carnauba to ensure it remains stable on flexible paper.Melting Point: Lower. These waxes are designed to melt instantly upon touching the low-heat iron. They are very fluid/runny when hot, allowing for the "swipe" effects.PigmentThe colors are vibrant but often slightly more dye-like or transparent than the heavy earth pigments of R&F. They are designed to be "candy-colored" and luminous on glossy paper.The Surface: The "Card" RuleEncaustic Art Card (The Secret)You cannot use this system on regular paper or canvas.The Product: They sell a specific "Encaustic Art Painting Card."What it is: A heavy cardstock with a special clay/gloss coating.Why it matters: The coating is non-absorbent. The wax sits on top of the card rather than soaking in. This allows you to rework the wax endlessly with the iron. If you used normal paper, the wax would stain the fibers and you couldn't move it.Working PropertiesThe "Fantasy" AestheticBecause the main tool is a flat iron, this brand is synonymous with a specific look: Sci-Fi Landscapes.The "Suction" technique (pulling the iron up) creates instant moss/foliage textures.The "Edge" technique creates perfect mountains.Critique: It is difficult to do realistic portraiture or architectural work with this system. It favors abstract and organic shapes.Re-workabilityBecause the wax is on non-absorbent card, it never truly "locks" down until it's cold. You can come back 10 years later, touch it with a hot iron, and change the painting.The Arthero VerdictBuy "Encaustic Art" brand if:You are a crafter, card-maker, or hobbyist.You have limited space (no room for griddles/ventilation).You want instant gratification (you can finish a painting in 5 minutes).You are afraid of the open flame/torches required for traditional encaustic.Skip it if:You are a fine artist looking for gallery-quality archival solidity (R&F on wood panel is superior for this).You want to use brushes. (You can use brushes with this wax, but the blocks are so small it is expensive to melt enough for a brush dip).You dislike the "fantasy landscape" aesthetic.Summary: This is the "gateway drug" to encaustic. Many start here with an iron and a card, fall in love with the smell of wax, and eventually graduate to the R&F/Panel method.

Enkaustikos
Enkaustikos is an American manufacturer dedicated exclusively to encaustic supplies. While R&F is a giant of the industry, Enkaustikos is the "chemist's choice." They are famous for their Wax Snaps (a convenient form factor) and their obsession with pharmaceutical-grade purity.The Main Difference:R&F paints are known for being "oily" and soft due to a higher oil content in their pigment load. Enkaustikos paints are known for being harder, cleaner, and higher melting point. If R&F is the "oil paint" of wax, Enkaustikos is the "enamel."The Product Lines (Don't buy the wrong one)Hot Sticks (The "Crayons")Form: Square sticks that look like giant crayons.Use: You can melt them on a hot palette, but they are designed for direct drawing on a heated substrate. You can draw with them like oil pastels on hot paper.Verdict: Excellent for sketchers and loose application.Wax Snaps (The "Chocolate Bar")Form: These are scored bars of pigmented wax (like a Hershey's bar) that you can snap into small pieces.Advantage: This solves the biggest headache of encaustic painting—controlling the amount of paint. With a traditional "cake" (like R&F), you have to melt the whole block or hack at it with a knife. With Wax Snaps, you break off exactly what you need.Verdict: The best buy. The most economical and convenient way to buy wax.The "Micro-Crystalline" AdditiveEnkaustikos is one of the few brands that heavily promotes Micro-Crystalline Wax (or "Micro-Wax") as an additive.What it is: A petroleum-based wax that is much more flexible and sticky than beeswax.Why use it: If you add 20% Micro-Wax to your Beeswax mixture, it becomes flexible enough to use on paper or canvas without cracking. This is their secret weapon for mixed media artists.Technical SpecificationsBinder: U.S. pharmaceutical grade (USP) beeswax + Damar resin.Note: Their beeswax is bleached and filtered more aggressively than most brands. It is incredibly white and clean, which means their pale colors and whites are brighter than competitors that use yellow beeswax.Pigment load:Very high. Because they filter the wax so purely, there is no "honey" residue to interfere with the pigment. The colors are intensely saturated.Melting Point:Slightly higher than R&F.R&F: Melts ~175°F.Enkaustikos: Melts ~185°F.Implication: If you mix the two brands on a palette, the R&F will melt first. This is usually fine, but some artists find the different melting rates annoying when blending.Working PropertiesHardnessBecause Enkaustikos uses a very precise ratio of Damar resin, their paints cure to a harder finish than almost any other brand.The Benefit: They polish up to a higher gloss. If you want that "glass-like" shine, Enkaustikos is superior.The Drawback: They are more brittle. You must use a rigid panel.OpacityThey are famous for their transparents. Their "Transparent Red Earth" and "Transparent Golden Orange" are legendary for glazing. Because the base wax is so clear, the glazes look like stained glass.The "Slick Wax" CleanerEnkaustikos sells a soy-based cleaner called "Slick Wax."Why it matters: Cleaning wax off brushes is a nightmare. You can't use water. You shouldn't use turpentine (flammable + heat = bad).The Fix: You dip your dirty brush into the Slick Wax (soy wax), and the soy pushes the pigment out. You then wipe it clean. It is non-toxic and saves your brushes.The ArtHero VerdictBuy Enkaustikos if:You are a "color purity" perfectionist who wants the brightest whites and the clearest glazes.You hate wasting paint (the "Wax Snap" system saves you money).You want a high-gloss, glass-like finish.Stick to R&F if:You want a softer, "oil-paint" feel.You already own a ton of R&F (mixing brands is fine, but sticking to one ensures consistent melting points).Pro Tip: If you buy Enkaustikos, buy their "Hot Cakes" white. It is arguably the most opaque, covering white in the industry.

R&F Handmade Paints
R&F (R&F Handmade Paints) is an undisputed giant of the encaustic world. Based in Kingston, New York, they are the company responsible for the modern revival of encaustic painting.If you take a workshop or watch a professional tutorial, the artist is almost certainly using R&F. They define the standard for what encaustic paint should feel like. While Enkaustikos is known for hardness and purity, R&F is known for its "lusciousness"—a softer, more buttery feel that mimics the handling of oil paint.The Product Form factorThe "Cakes" (Blocks)R&F sells their paint in rectangular blocks (40ml, 104ml, and 333ml).The Pros: They are incredibly dense. One small block lasts a very long time because the pigment load is extremely high.The Cons: Unlike the "Wax Snaps" from Enkaustikos, these are solid bricks. If you only want a little bit of color, you have to chip it off with a knife or melt the edge of the block on your palette.Encaustic Stick (Pigment Sticks)Note: Do not confuse these with their "Encaustic Paints." R&F is also famous for Pigment Sticks (oil sticks). These contain linseed oil, not wax.Can you use them together? Yes. You can draw with an R&F Oil Stick on top of an encaustic painting to add gestural lines. However, you cannot use them under encaustic, or the wax will slide off.Technical SpecificationsBinder: 100% USP beeswax + Damar resin.The Mix: R&F is secretive about their exact ratio, but artists generally agree they use a slightly higher percentage of beeswax relative to resin compared to other brands. This is what gives R&F its distinctively "soft" feel.Melting Point:Approximately 175°F (79°C).Handling: This is the sweet spot. It flows easily on a low-heat palette (pancake griddle set to ~200°F). It cools slowly enough to give you a few seconds of manipulation time.Pigment Load:Extreme. This is why they are expensive. R&F mills their pigments into the wax with intense precision.The Result: When you melt a block of R&F "Cadmium Red," it is opaque and powerful. You can dilute it with 50% clear medium and it will still be vibrant. This makes the high price tag deceptively economical.Working PropertiesThe "Oil Paint" FeelR&F feels creamy. When molten, it has a viscosity similar to heavy cream. It brushes out smoothly and blends wet-in-wet on the hot palette beautifully.TranslucencyWhile they have great opaque colors, R&F excels at translucent glazes.Key Color: "Ancient Gold" is an R&F classic—a iridescent, shimmering gold that looks like aged metal when glazed over dark colors.Key Color: "Indanthrone Blue" is their famous deep, dark, transparent blue that rivals Indigo.VersatilityBecause the formula is slightly softer/waxier, R&F paints are excellent for texture. They hold brushstrokes and "peaks" well as they cool. If you want to build up a 3D surface (impasto), R&F is structurally superior to harder waxes.The Color EcosystemThe PaletteR&F offers over 100 colors. They align their color names with traditional oil paints (e.g., Alizarin Crimson, Viridian, Ultramarine Blue), making it easy for oil painters to transition.Encaustic Medium (The "Extender")R&F sells bags of "Encaustic Medium" (clear wax pellets).The Strategy: You should never paint with pure colored cakes 100% of the time—it's too expensive. You melt a puddle of Clear Medium, then dip your brush into the color cake to tint it.Tip: R&F Medium comes in "XD" (Extra Damar) version if you want a harder surface, but the standard bag is what 90% of artists use.The ArtHero VerdictBuy R&F if:You are a serious artist who wants the widest color range and the highest pigment load available.You want to learn from books/videos (almost all tutorials reference R&F color names).You want a "painterly" feel that allows for deep texture and impasto.The Warning:They are pricey. A large block can cost $30–$60.Budget Tip: Buy the "Opaque White" and "Encaustic Medium" from R&F (because quality matters for the base), but consider making your own earth tones (using dry pigments) to save money.Best Starter Set:The R&F Opaque Color Set. It gives you the foundational covering power you need. Avoid the "Translucent" sets until you understand how to layer.


